Glasgow’s food scene has changed a great deal over the past two decades, and few areas show it better than the Merchant City. This grid of streets east of George Square, once home to the warehouses of 18th-century tobacco and sugar traders, is now one of the easiest places in the city to eat well on foot. Here is what to expect, and what to try while you’re there
A neighbourhood built for eating out
The Merchant City’s appeal lies in its density. Within a few blocks of Ingram Street, Candleriggs and Albion Street you’ll find old-school Scottish dining rooms, modern bistros, Italian trattorias, Asian restaurants and plenty of relaxed bars serving food late into the evening. Many occupy former merchants’ buildings, so high ceilings and stone façades are part of the experience.
Café Gandolfi on Albion Street has been part of the area since the late 1970s and is a good introduction to Scottish produce: think smoked fish, local cheeses and seasonal game. A short walk west, on Exchange Place near Royal Exchange Square, Rogano has served seafood in its Art Deco dining room since the 1930s and is worth a visit for the interior alone.
Cafés and daytime stops
During the day, the area is at its best for unhurried coffee and lunch. Independent cafés are scattered along Wilson Street, Hutcheson Street and around Merchant Square, a covered courtyard on Candleriggs where several bars and restaurants share an indoor seating area. It’s a practical option on a rainy afternoon, which in Glasgow is never a hypothetical.
Look out, too, for bakeries selling Scotch pies and sausage rolls, the classic Glasgow lunch on the move.
Markets and street food
Street food has become a fixture of the city centre. Under Central Station, a few minutes’ walk from the Merchant City, the Argyle Street arches host Platform, a weekend street-food market with rotating traders, drinks and music. Further east, the Barras in the Calton district is better known for bric-a-brac than food, but it makes for an interesting wander combined with a snack. Opening days vary, so check before you go.
What to try in Glasgow
A few local specialities are worth seeking out:
- A full Scottish breakfast, with square (Lorne) sausage, black pudding and a tattie scone.
- Haggis, served with neeps and tatties, or in more inventive forms on modern menus.
- Cullen skink, a creamy smoked haddock soup ideal on a cold day.
- Curry: Glasgow takes its Indian restaurants seriously, and the city is often credited with popularising chicken tikka masala.
- Irn-Bru and tablet, a bright orange soft drink and a very sweet fudge-like confection, for the full local experience.
Practical information: getting there and where to stay
The Merchant City is easy to reach. Queen Street station, with trains from Edinburgh and the north, sits on the edge of George Square, while Central Station and the Buchanan Street Subway stop are a few minutes’ walk away. Once you’re here, everything in this guide is walkable.
For an overnight stay, lyf George Square Glasgow is a new hotel at 201 Ingram Street, right in the middle of the area described above, with George Square and Queen Street station a short walk away. Information about the hotel is available on discoverasr.com. Staying this close means dinner, a late drink and breakfast the next morning are all within a few streets.
Final word
The Merchant City rewards a slow approach: start with coffee, graze your way through lunch and book somewhere good for dinner. Between its historic dining rooms, busy bars and weekend street food, it offers a clear taste of how Glasgow eats today.
