It’s been almost a year now since I last visited La Source in Lanaken. Eating so much food around Europe, and especially in London has meant revisit reviews are becoming much more of an occurrence. And its a lovely thing too. Having the opportunity to revisit means you can connect a little bit more every time, with not only the restaurant and its food but also staff and the chefs who create such gastronomic surprises. It doesn’t take long before you slowly develop a deep affection and respect for all the hard work that goes into creating such an experience. This is of course all providing standards haven’t slipped. That certainly wasn’t the case here.
The one thing my last review didn’t do the restaurant any justice, was the photos. Only a year later and technology has already changed enough for what used to be a low lighting blur, to photos which can quite literally set the mouth salivating. Bread was almost identical to that we ate last year – except it was even more perfect this time round. Not only its taste but also the look, precision and bake. Baking a loaf to look this perfect isn’t an easy task. Paired with delicious butter, fantastic olive oil and that oh so good sea salt from, Wales.
My only regret for giving La Source a perfect 10/10 score last year (the only perfect score I’ve ever awarded) is that I can’t give them any more points. Since the last time I ate here things have become a whole lot more serious. The team working behind a small glass window which can be looked through from the dining room really are an extraordinary bunch. They were awarded one Michelin star in 2013 and if cooking continues this way – who knows what else will happen. The finger food here really is a meal in itself and seems to be never ending with dish after dish appearing. I can’t quite remember exactly what we had in front of us, but those spoons carrying an icy white ball had a gorgeously intense cucumber flavour which burst in the mouth, realising its cold, fresh cucumber flavours. Everything else was just a pure delight to eat.
Followed by a fresh and vibrantly tasting amuse bouche our first actual starter arrived. Scallops and north sea crab, verveine, tomato, yante and bergamot. Firstly I should point out I have no idea what yante is – please enlighten me if you do. The scallops had been moulded to form the outer casing, which contained the juicy shredded crab. Surrounded by a clear bergamot infused broth, perfectly ripe tomatoes and the intense vervain leaf. What a dish. The chefs of course couldn’t help showing off their creative talent with the moulded seashell on the side, even that tasted lovely.
Only really dipping in to the main part of our meal, the most incredible course arrived. North Sea sole and sot l’y laisse with artichokes, peas (in a few different ways), lemon and a tarragon. The fish was absolutely stunning, not only visually but the flavour and precise cooking. Peas were served as a puree, gel and in their own form – all were very nice and complimented the fish superbly. I’m not quite sure what the l’y laisse (chicken oysters) part of the dish was but i assume it was the chicken skins – which went very well, though perhaps given the wrong descriptor. Explaining how delicious this dish really was is impossible, you’ll just have to discover that for yourself and visit.
I keep saying every dish is my favourite, but the fact is that everything is so good you can’t help but fall in love dish by dish. Lamb medallions with pumpkin, carrots, gorgeously spiced little falafel balls and a jus to die for. It was an incredibly full on affair with its flavours and multitude of powerful spices but everything worked in perfect harmony with each other. As soon as we delved into our dish, its surprising accompaniment arrived and things got a whole lot more serious – which seemed impossible at this stage.
Lamb curry with lentils was out of all the dishes we were served here, the one where flavour took centre stage to everything else. This small dish filled with succulent chunks of shredding to the touch lamb, lentils, spiced yogurt, pickles and a devilishly good sauce was the sort of thing you could only normally dream of. It was easily the best curry I have ever eaten. Don’t get me wrong you couldn’t eat too much of it as it’s so intense and rich, but this small quantity could satisfy even the most greediest of gluttons. If I had the recipe for this I can’t imagine the need to ever leave my house again.
Eating out so much these days does also have it downfalls. Surprises in a meal actually start to become more of a rare occurrence. Michelin star restaurants may have been around for some time but what is happening right now in some of them is something completely different. Technology, the minds of the way people think to cook and the theatricals are all evolving – for the better. Eating out for a lot of people is no longer about filling yourself up or a special occasion, but seen as an event, to celebrate in its own right. Pre-theatre dining for example was a way to eat before a show, now people are spending just as much as they would do on a performance or night away and decide to instead have an extraordinary meal – completely skipping that theatre trip altogether. So when my concept design dessert arrived I couldn’t have been more impressed It’s dishes like these that you’d happily skip most things for. A collaboration between Jochen Leen (on site Jewellers) and head chef, Ralf Berendsen they have created a stunning masterpiece in the form of a dessert. Consisting of chocolate mousse, buckthorn berries, avocado and wheat germ it was most certainly the highlight for me. Not only for this meal, but of the year.
10/10
