Born and bred in London, I moved with my parents when I was around five years old to Bushey in Hertfordshire. A pretty little village, with great connections to central London and it was also where I was schooled. But fast forward 12 years from then, I moved myself back to Pinner, then London in my second property, and have been here ever since. So it came as a surprise when I got an email inviting me to dine at St James Restaurant in Bushey, which I had been walking past ever since it opened in 1997 in my school uniform.
Alfonso La Cava opened St James Restaurant in Bushey Village in 1997 and since 2019, his nephew Giammarco Angelilli has taken over the kitchens. Giammarco worked in the city for a while and became head chef of Friends restaurant in Pinner (I also dined here a couple of times in the past) where he won a 1 rosettes award. In 2014 he moved to New York where after 6 months moved to Chicago for a new project. In 2015 he came back to London and in March 2016 opened Osteria Modigliani in Pinner which he sold in 2018. St James feels like an exciting place to dine at right now and we kicked off our tasting menu with an amuse-bouche of mushroom soup with a truffle foam which was so inviting and warming – the perfect start to our lunch.
The restaurant offers a lighter lunch menu during the day, an a la carte menu for dinner, Sunday roasts, afternoon tea, delicious cocktails and bottomless brunches – the choices are endless and there’s something for everyone. Our tasting menu comprised of six courses priced at £45 which I thought was a steal (plus there’s a slightly toned-down version for £35) and in London for this quality – you’d be paying double that and more. Plus, there is a private dining room for those business affairs or celebrations.
I think my favourite dish here (well one of many) was this pan-fried scallops, served with red Thai curry sauce, samphire and cashew nut salad. The scallops were honestly cooked to pure perfection. I’ve had far too many tough and chewy ones in my life (even in some of the best establishments) – but this didn’t let us down. The Thai curry sauce was silky and smooth and the samphire cashew nut salad was a much-welcomed texture. A really beautiful dish, but if I’m being extra picky (because it was so good), the sauce could have had just a little more depth and intensity to linger on the palate.
Indulge in a culinary masterpiece with the slow-cooked grass-fed ox beef cheek here at St James. Impeccably prepared through slow-cooking techniques, the tender beef is bathed in a velvety port wine reduction, creating a symphony of rich flavors. Served atop a bed of parsnips, apples, and celeriac pearl barley risotto, each bite offers a harmonious blend of sweetness, tartness, and nuttiness. Visually stunning and generously portioned, this dish is a triumph of taste and presentation, providing such a memorable dining experience. The reduction was so glossy and beautiful – it wasn’t the easiest to photograph, reflecting into the lens. I could eat it all over again.
Let’s talk about the exquisite pan-fried cod. This delectable dish features perfectly cooked cod, paired with chorizo croquettes, cod brandade, and a tantalizing tomato relish. The crowning glory is the wild garlic béarnaise, adding a burst of aromatic flavors. With a perfect balance of textures and a medley of flavours, this culinary creation is a stunning blend of seafood excellence and creative gastronomy. Who knew such a stellar restaurant was in Bushey!
