One of the lovely things about The Dysart is that it’s family run and owned. Manager Barny Taylor wants to see The Dysart thrive as a fine dining restaurant but still faces the challenge they need to overcome of letting people know this is no longer a pub (formerly The Dysart Arms) but has become a serious destination restaurant. And classically trained head chef, Kenneth Culhane seems to have just appeared from nowhere producing outstanding food in the kitchen with the help of the rest of his team. A few nibbles to settle us in went down a treat, although perhaps that polenta and lemon one should stay in the kitchen, it didn’t do much for me.
If you haven’t noticed before, then i should tell you – I’m obsessed with bread. Apart from an amuse bouche, or pre-nibbles it’s usually the first thing that gives you a little insight in to what the rest of your meal may entail. And here the bread set some incredibly high standards for the rest of our meal. A soda bread, like nothing I’ve ever eaten before came out served on a rustic wooden board. Cakey, burnt, crispy, charred, dense and containing so much flavour that every mouthful was like devouring heaven (not sure if that sounds right). Two loafs which were just as burnt (in a good way), crispy but incredibly fluffy on the inside and were flavoured with Comte and truffle – I know. It was all just as good as it sounded and photographed – much like everything here.
Quickly following in its place was an amuse bouche of lobster ceviche which was you’ve guessed it – incredible. But our first starter of charred mackerel with kombu braised daikon, ginger and champagne was a sheer delight to the senses. I’d have never of guessed I was eating daikon but mixed with the kombu and spices it made for a lovely intense, slightly sweet juice. Bringing Asian flavours together with a little elegance and that oh so trendy charring of food has created some excellent dishes across London. And this was no exception.
The Petersham tomato (home grown) salad with a foraged blackberry vinaigrette was a very seasonal plate of food. Such a simple dish which with care and some fantastic produce can make for a very satisfying dish. Soft, juicy ripe tomatoes paired with a few leaves and a sweet blackberry vinaigrette – you couldn’t really ask for much more. The effort of growing their own produce and hunting around the fields of Richmond for those blackberry’s deserves an applause in its own. Simplicity at its best I say.
Huntsham Court Farm middle white pork, mashed potato, yellow beans, jus. Now i hope my photo tells you everything you need to know about this dish. But in case not, read on. The pork, served three ways were each beautifully cooked. A juicy firm and meaty chunk, a shredded spiced rillette(ish) style and another soft, mushy juicy piece. The mash was incredibly smooth, flavoursome and buttery. But the jus was simply on another level. Deep, rich and refined, technically – it was simply outstanding. If I could cover my Sunday roasts with it, then I’d never have to eat out again.
Beetroot are perhaps a thing of beauty. They have colour, a deep earthy flavour, touch of sweetness and are so juicy they leave you begging for more. And then there were these. Salt baked beets with toasted hazelnuts. Firm chunks, but soft to the bite and covered in a dressing which left us salivating. And the toasted hazelnuts, well they just added another level of depth, flavour and texture. This was the best bowl of beetroot I’ve ever eaten. At £3.50 I think they should title this, and the rest of their sides as ‘an absolute bargain‘.
If for any reason you’re still on the fence then perhaps I forgot to mention that the food you are seeing here, is all part of their lunch deal of £22.50 for three courses. It’s one of the very few handfuls of restaurants whereby their lunch menu completely reflects their a la carte menu. There’s no skimping on quality or lacking in flavour, the food is generally just as exceptional in every way here. And this next dish was easily one of my favourites. Wild South Coast hake, with truffle brandade and grenobloise sauce. Everything was screaming flavour, both on the menu and when it arrived. If only I could capture the smell for you because it was so ambrosial under my nose. The pristine white flesh of the hake was sweet and juicy, but what really made everything come together here was that gorgeous grenobloise sauce which had a deep smokey streak running through it. It’s dishes like these that are the reason I always want to eat out, but finding them is the hard part.
Even desserts photographed to look as though they should instead be on the front cover of Delicious Magazine. A rustic looking pandan creme brulee with peanut butter biscuit was small, but perfectly formed. It’s the first time I’ve ever had pandan in a dish, or at least knowingly anyway. And what a lovely thing it is. Similar to vanilla with an intense fragrant sweetness which was evenly sparse through the dense brulee. The top was hard, crunchy and burnt just the right amount. But actually my favourite part was the peanut butter cookie. A big hit of flavour in a few bites. If Santa got these for Christmas I can’t imagine he’d be visiting any other houses this year.
Petersham bergamot with yogurt cream and nectarine retained all its natural flavour and everything was so well refined that nothing took centre stage over the other. Every texture and flavour could be tasted on its own. The nectarines were juicy, as was its juice and that little dome of bergamot infused cream was dare I say it, near perfect. After all the food we just ate such a light dessert containing all the flavour needed was a fantastic way to end our meal.
Well, what else do i need to say about the Petersham? Other than it having some pretty amazing food it also has some other unique attributes to it. Mainly the fact that the menu screams quality, technique and skill for prices which will leave change in your pocket – and not to mention being London’s best value lunch (you can quote me on that). The decor is rustic, yet classy and the added bonus of a courtyard and scenic walks just outside are a reason to visit alone. Head chef, Kenneth Culhane certainly has some talent and I suspect he will be one to watch, very closely. With the Michelin Guide 2015 fast approaching who knows what will happen although I suspect it won’t be untill next year until The Dysart receives its first star and if that didn’t happen – I’d be very surprised indeed.
9/10
