REVIEW: Pavilion, Kensington High Street, Kensington

Kensington must be the one place in London that’s hard to succeed in. The clientele have high standards, are famously hard to please – and quite honestly (as i know a few of its residents) are not too adventurous with their food. That’s why i live in Chelsea, the home of the mediocre Italian restaurant eaters who insist in bringing their children along. The newly opened Pavilion restaurant on Kensington High Street is nothing like that, in fact it’s like nothing in Kensington. And i think its locals will be very pleased indeed. Especially seeing as Michelin starred chef, Adam Simmonds is involved.

Previously this space on Kensington High Street was known as, Dryland. Serving up cafe style food to business members of the adjoining serviced offices. Now, it still has its ‘exclusive’ offerings with little extras such as priority bookings, access to the private terrace and business members’ club. If not a tad expensive for £95 a month – but worth it for the terrace alone by the looks of it. The dining room has been redesigned, and i must say it is looking fabulous. Lots of marble, mustard yellow leathers, dark brown lacquered woods and a bar to die for. When i conjure up a restaurant I’d like to own, this is how I’d imagine it. The chefs table for one is a highlight in its own right.

A quick tipple at the bar, resulted in a few too many Negroni style Americana’s – which were pleasant but far to weak for my palate. The short, but perfect wine list on the other hand was stunning. We luckily managed to bag a seat at the chef’s table. Which while a little hot from the warming lights, left me feeling as if I’d spent a week in the Bahamas by the end of it – but made for the perfect evening. First of our starters to divulge into was fresh salmon gravadlax with a crab salad, pomelo (citrus fruit from southeast Asia) and avocado. It was all very nice but i can’t say i was blown away by it, but a great showcase of that lovely salmon if nothing.

Our other starter of slow-cooked pork belly with silky textured homemade black pudding, juicy Scottish langoustine to die for, smoked pineapple (always a winner) and lardo was a stunning little dish. It had everything a person could long for in one single mouthful. I was a little sceptical about it all blending together, but it did. I couldn’t quite decide if the portion size was a little small, but once the mains arrived i was glad it was the size it was. The other thing that really surprised me was the pricing, very reasonable for the quality of the food – and especially given the area.

I’m not quite sure how, but my awful photography skills managed to make everything, especially this next dish look ten times smaller than it actually was. Bone marrow appears an inch long but in fact its not far off the length of my steak, which was a medium rare sirloin – half the size of my arm. It was rich, it was meaty – but that sirloin could have been a little more tender if were being picky. Yet when i look back and think, all this for £22 wasn’t bad at all. The chips were perfect. Golden, fluffy, crunchy – delicious.

Was it possible this meal could become any more indulgent than it already had, apparently so. A whole poached Scottish lobster, mixed with some fresh salad leaves, chunks of octopus, fresh fennel, oh so juicy watermelon – and a salty but magnificent black olive puree. It was light, but rich at the same time. It’s the sort of balance you’d want from every dish in an ideal world with the satisfying depth, yet not leaving you feeling as if you’d eaten a horse.

The bitter chocolate marquise, with mint, mint ice cream and aerated chocolate was someones dream, but not really mine. It was made and executed very well, rich, indulgent – and had this lingering freshness from the mint. The mint was so vibrant, you’d think you took a bite into a freshly made (good quality) after eight. I’ve never quite taken to these minty desserts but of course that doesn’t mean it wasn’t good. Just not to my taste. My dining companion on the other hand was literally drooling on to the table, rather embarrassing really.

What are the chance Pavilion restaurant would be serving up a dessert abundant in one of my most favourite things – orange. A light and bouncy orange blossom pain perdu (aka French toast), paired with what could have quite easily been the most amazing buttermilk mouse – oh and an orange granite that if tasted blind you’d have easily mistaken for a fresh orange (apart from the texture, obviously). A delicious, if not incredible dessert.

I was very sceptical about Pavilion restaurant. I’m not sure why, but it probably had something to do with its location. The High Street is not known for its food, really –  apart from just of the beaten track, Kitchen W8. Now things have changed. The best restaurant currently on Kensington High Street is without a doubt, Pavilion. I can’t yet see if getting any Michelin Star – but a few AA Rosettes no doubt. In time, who knows what’s around the corner, it only opened last week.

8/10

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1 Comment

  1. Anonymous
    June 5, 2014 / 9:14 pm

    £1140 a year to use a terrace. “worth it”