REVIEW: Copita, D’Arblay Street, Soho

If I’m ever faced with that childish desert island conundrum of ‘if you only had to eat one type of food, what would it be?’ My answer will always be Indian, and Spanish cuisine. Both have so much to offer in terms of vibrancy, flavour, tradition and importantly value for money. Copita in Soho has it all. Nestled in the back streets of Soho, it’s an extremely hidden restaurant which doesn’t help itself with its inconspicuous facade that gives nothing away when walking past.
I’d actually never heard of Copita before and only managed to find out about it from new restaurant booking app, CityHawk. It popped up on my screen so I thought why not. The moment I arrived I was quickly left in the capable hands of the staff who after helping to secure my a table outside, I quickly lost by the vulturous sun worshippers of London. Instead I sat inside, hot and with 25 degrees just on the other side of the glass.

If you read my reviews, you’ll know I never stop talking about bread in a restaurant and here at Copita, they have it absolutely spot on. Warm, thick, fluffy and a nice dark nutty crust. It even had that smokiness which had been sucked in from the kitchen air or found itself in a meaty flavoured oven – either way it was perfect. Paired with a little sea salt, olive oil – and the bargain priced carafe of wine for £10.

Chorizo de bellota (acorn fed) was thinly sliced, served on a large wooden board and offered great value for money. All this beautiful soft meat with a lingering smokiness and flavour which literally keeps you salivating will set you back £5.50. Even a book, half a bottle of wine and plate of this in the summer would please anyone looking to kick their feet up. Or get completely sozzled.

Rightly so, Copita is listed in the Michelin Guide having obtained a Bib Gourmand in 2013. This accolade points out a restaurant which offers very good food, at moderate prices. That’s why you’ll get these moreish mushroom croquettes at only £1.65 each. They’re well sized, have a lovely deep earthy flavour and the ‘perfect crunch’. I’m always terribly let down by Spanish Croquettes stuffed with cheese and ham but here, they couldn’t have been any better.

Perhaps the one slight let down of the meal was this smoked ham and smoked paprika dish. It wasn’t at all bad by any means, but the paprika helping was very enthusiastic and really got at the back of my throat with its choking heat. The ham was fine but at the end of the day, it was just that and nothing more. The vegetable mash on the other hand was lovely and smooth.

By far one of the best things I’ve eaten this year was this soft truffled goats cheese drowned in luscious floral fragranced honey – plus a good helping of almond flakes. Ladle this mouth-watering plate of food on to bread and enjoy. Its simple dishes like this I love where simplicity really can be delicious – using good quality produce of course. If you go to Copita order this dish, you’ll have dreams about it the next day.

Crunchy green romano peppers, tetilla cheese (translates as small breast, obviously) and nigella seeds was like having your own plate of melted fondue which you’ll most likely have to share with friends – and you won’t want to. That’s the problem with the food here at Copita, it’s too good to share.

Apple crumble was not at all exciting, but it wasn’t bad either. Warm cinnamon coated apples which thankfully weren’t overcooked. A somewhat lumpy crumble had a little too much sugar but the best part of it all was the stunning ice cream. Beautiful fresh rosemary lingering its way around the mouth and a lovely fresh smoothness about it  – why gelaterias across London aren’t infusing their ice cream with such a beautiful herb is beyond me.

I think I may have just found my favourite tapas restaurant in London. The food is gorgeous, the wine is cheap (and good), and the service is perfect. This place feels so familiar and I’m not sure why. Maybe its the warm evenings back in Jerez, or tapas with sangria and friends in Madrid – who knows. All i do know is that Copita is absolutely delicious and I’m so glad I found it.

8/10

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