REVIEW: The Sands End, Stephendale Road, Fulham

If just strolling past you’d think The Sands End pub in Fulham was your average local boozer, but you’d be wrong – it’s much more than that. They serve delicious wines, delicious food and great staff with relaxed, yet very attentive service. It’s what most Londoner’s long for, so these local Fulham residents must be over the moon. The head chef here is Oliver Marlowe who formerly worked at The Glasshouse & Chez Bruce, two very good restaurants – The Sands End is now also recommended by the Michelin Guide, a great triumph.

Selection of starters didn’t particularly whet the appetite, and when my chosen dish of crab and scallop ravioli with buttered leeks and a shellfish veloute (sounding like an impressive spoon from ‘The Taste’) arrived it didn’t look particularly appealing. A mouthful later and i was gleaming with delight. Frothy, smoky paprika dusted shellfish veloute was a delight to eat and the single raviolo was a gorgeous example, especially with all its delicate seafood stuffing and buttered leaks.

Without much introduction the humble burger made an appearance on the menu. Burgers in London are, and have been the most talked about dish for a couple of years now. With such a raved about item you’d have thought The Sands End were jumping on the back of it all and dishing out a delight to compare with the best. Sadly they’re a little off the mark and feel a bit left behind. A meaty patty, cooked nearer to a well-done had a good flavour, but chewy – from it being overcooked. The gruyere cheese was quite strong and ended up being the main taste. The bun and mustard/ketchup sauce (reminiscent of that from a Big Mac) on the other hand were very lovely, as were the triple cooked chips. The biggest annoyance was the teenie tiny board it’s all served on which insisted on dribbling across the table and on to our laps.

Roasted hake with heavenly ‘nduja risotto, lots of salted almonds, aioli and pecorino was a sheer delight to eat. It’s dishes like this where you can see why the Michelin guide have recommended The Sands End. It was all impeccably well cooked, beautiful hake, stunning risotto and those almonds made it just a little bit more exciting. Unusual mix of flavours, which really paid off.

I had so much trouble deciding on what to spoil my sweet tooth with, and finally settled on a chocolate mousse with iced coffee, nougatine and a praline foam – yes it was as good as it sounds. Luscious lashings of praline foam, reminiscent of a tiramisu with all that coffee ice leaking in to it. Light and airy chocolate mouse with pockets of nougatine and toasted nuts – it was all very decadent.

To sum it all up, The Sands End is a great pub. Offering a great selection of wines at attractive prices and food which manages to surprise you. If you can make it down to this cosy little pub, perhaps at lunch during the week it will only et you back a mere £15 for three courses, making it one of London’s best value pubs. And one which I will certainly be returning to.

7/10

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