So I had that rare opportunity recently of going back to a restaurant which I dined at last year, and said I wouldn’t be returning too. Everything I ate last year looked clumsy on the plate, attention to detail was minimal and things just didn’t leave me longing for them again. But something unprecedented has happened. The head chef and owner , Franck Raymond has taken customer feedback to the max, because he’s managed to turn what was just another French bistro restaurant in Battersea, to THE best French bistro in Battersea.
From the moment I walked in to Augustine Kitchen again, something felt noticeably different. I’m not sure why – maybe it was the torrential rain outside which left us warm and cosy besides a bottle of Provence rose on our table. Maybe is was our waitress who was attentive yet unobtrusive. Or maybe I was yet again swooned over by the outstanding prices for this part of London. Who knows. Once we managed to gulp down some of that delicious cold rose, our first, of many starters arrived. A sublime duck terrine with a prune and ginger marmalade, a rich meatiness and great texture. There was so much flavour to it, with that marmalade adding a lovely coating of sweetness. We actually scraped the pot of marmalade dry – it was that good.
It was my first time ever sampling fera. I’ve heard about this fish, but not nearly enough compared to Simon Rogan’s new restaurant Fera in Mayfair. Yet this humble delicacy deserves an honorary mention. I’m amazed chefs across the UK haven’t been abusing it like they do everything else. It’s full flavoured, strong, intense, yet once it’s smoked that flavour turns to a lingering mellowness which worked perfectly with some dollops of what I think was an apple puree (although don’t quote me on that) and some creme fraiche. What a gorgeous plate of food this was. It looked just as good too.
You’ll forgive me for saying that I’ve never been a big fan of egg mimosa. It’s the sort of dish your mother would give to you as a child when she had guests over getting sozzled on Liebfraumilch. Maybe she just wasn’t very good at putting it together because Augustine Kitchen managed to completely change my perception of the dish. Light and creamy with a hint of curry vinaigrette and curly watercress. What more could you want. It was such a comforting dish, and while simple ticked all the boxes for a great starter.
A classic French onion soup served in a ramekin was exactly the dish we wanted to be eating while it was hailing down outside, it may be British summer time but that doesn’t stop our weather changing rapidly. When I last ate this dish it looked so sad, it was too sweet and the cheese covered croutons were drowning in the middle of the bowl. Now, the Beaufort cheese is very generous, grilled perfectly, lots of croutons hiding underneath to soak it up and more importantly, not too sweet and seasoned perfectly. It’s almost unrecognisable to when I was here last summer.
If we thought things couldn’t improve or get any better than they already had over this lunch, then we were wrong. Dishes just kept giving. Absolutely the best thing I ate here at Augustine Kitchen was this incredible dish of roasted cod, quinoa (I can’t stand the pronunciation for this word) and an orange and rosemary sauce. Just thinking back to this dish now makes me long for it. The cod was absolutely stunning. Cooked perfectly, skin off, and with one side so crunchy and a little salty – it left the mouth salivating. Dollops of smooth buttery potato, and a heavenly orange butter sauce. Every mouth was such a delight to eat. If you make it over to Augustine Kitchen this dish should be high up on your to taste list.
Cheese, well it was an outstanding array of some finest French examples. A rich and nutty Comte, sour and ethereal Tamie – and a blue cheese to die. Slicing into these huge chunks was definitely a test – all I wanted to do was pick up that half wheel and bite in to it. Some of that prune jelly we started with would have gone perfectly with the cheese course too – that and a couple of side plates for the crunchy bread and all that lovely cheese we tried our best not to devour it all.
Not only has technology improved so much that all of my photos looks a zillion times better than my last post, but it just shows you how delectable the dishes really look. This coconut floating island, if I recall correctly needed a custard with a little oomph. Now it’s turned into a gorgeously light, chewy and fluffy meringue surrounded by a delicate, but quite milky custard and topped with those all important gratings of lime zest. The lime zest simply lifts this dish and turns it into the sort of dessert which you could never leave untouched if constantly put down in front of you.
A gorgeous warm raspberry and almond tart was dare I say it again, excellent. I’m never normally a huge fan of tarts (take that how you will). But here head chef Franck managed to create something so moist and full of flavour the idea of never eating a tart again seemed impossible. Especially once covered in that little pot of cream. The dark chocolate mousse was I think mixed with a little caramel, and if it wasn’t – then it was even more magical. Topped with chocolate soil, and a sprig of basil – it was a lovely end to our meal.
Without any reluctance whatsoever I can wholeheartedly say that compared to my last visit to Augustine Kitchen, this meal was like eating in a completely different restaurant. Everything was presented beautifully, portion sizes were excellent, and still – so were the prices. It’s shocking to think that within a five-minute walk from my house, such a restaurant has changed so much under my nose, without me ever realising. Pick up the phone and book a table at Augustine Kitchen NOW. You’re in for a real treat.
8/10
I think this reviewer started out trying to show his cleverness by disapproving just for the sake of appearing discriminating. My experience couldn’t have been more different!
Hi Elaine, thankyou for commenting. I always review a restaurant honestly and truthfully. I did not dine on my own and my fellow diners had the same experience as myself. Why i would want to discriminate a good meal is beyond me. I’ll endeavour to try it again and in the near future and see if anything has changed.